South Africa | A visit to the land of Braai, Bokke, & ample Bushland
If you are an outdoor enthusiast, this country will indulge your every wish and desire, with endless opportunities to climb to beautiful vistas, swim in expansive oceans, and wander through ample forests. This pic was captured on a hike to the top of Lion’s Head, with stellar views of Table Mountain, both popular stops for tourists and locals alike in Cape Town.
I arrived to South Africa in September 2023 fresh off the heels of a Business of Conservation Conference hosted by the Africa Leadership University in Rwanda. My days preparing to depart were filled with foreshadowing of what I would get to explore deeper during my visit.
With many representatives from various South African private reserves present at the conference, there appeared to be a bit of a friendly sense of competition that existed between Rwanda and South Africa. Jokes were made about how nice it must be for South Africans to have escaped the loadshedding headaches, which are regular rolling blackouts due to insufficient generation energy capacity, that has haunted South Africa since 2007.
And yet, South Africa had its shining moment, as well, based upon the Wildlife Economy Investment Index (WEII), which Africa Leadership University had recently produced, standing out as the “top performer” due to their inventory of wildlife assets, management approach, in addition to their ability to facilitate strong investment incentives.
The strengths of the different African countries represented at the conference with regards to conservation were unique and varied. And while I came to see that South Africans have sadly lost a lot of confidence in the competence and strength of its government in recent years, the unintended effect is that the private sector has risen to the occasion in order to protect and preserve the country they love, inclusive of nature and humans. And yet, that most certainly doesn’t mean that all lives are perceived to have the same rights to protection, as is true of most countries that have histories rooted in Colonialism, including my own country of origin.
Knowing I had a few new friends from my recent involvement with the Transformational Travel Council to greet me and share their local perspective on the country was such a source of delight and comfort. Meet Paul, founder of The Journeyman Experience, and amazing nature guide and coach!
Another moment of foreshadowing were two conversations I had with colleagues in Rwanda, who were American and African, who both expressed a distaste for South Africa. My caucasian friend from the U.S., who has been doing work across East Africa to help refugees establish small businesses through entrepreneurship enablement programming, attributed her distaste to the superiority South Africans seem to feel compared to others on the continent. My Nigerian friend indicated that he would never travel to the U.S. or to South Africa, because they were two places he knew he would never feel welcomed. This was foreshadowing to the prevalent xenophobia that came to learn more about, which felt familiar to the distorted rhetoric in the U.S. about immigrants being a detriment to society.
So as you can imagine, it was with great anticipation that I headed South with the storks to discover for myself the realities behind these signals that had been presented prior to my departure. It was a return trip to the country, after I had studied abroad for a 6-week term as a Junior in college, twenty years prior. The emphasis of that previous trip was to investigate the before, during, and after of apartheid, and it was through that experience that I became enamored with Nelson Mandela as a peaceful warrior and exemplary leader.
One of my main concerns going into the trip was safety, which continues to be a top headline for South Africa, and is no doubt directly tied to the country’s status as the most unequal country in the world. And for this reason, I anticipated I would start my stay with the plan to stay a month, and consider staying longer, if I felt comfortable.
One month quickly became two, and quickly became three, as I continued to be drawn in by the natural beauty and dynamic characters I met along the way. My curiosities were drawn to understanding the depth of the inequities that still exist in the country while also learning about those who are actively working to reconcile them.
While apartheid ended over 30 years ago, as we know well in the US, structural racism is very hard to dismantle, especially when economic power is concentrated. As one of my tour guides shared, it is one of the rare places where 1st world and 3rd world are intimately intertwined, where on the same day you can stumble upon a ferrari dealership as well as a community without running water.
It is honestly hard to wrap your mind around, especially when it is backed with the statistic that 10 percent of the population owns more than 80 percent of the wealth (source). And then again, when I am back in the U.S. visiting places, such as Steamboat Springs, Colorado, that are filled with second homes that remain empty much of the year, while also observing my small town in Kentucky, which felt immune from “big city problems,” having increasing issues with homelessness, I am once again humbled to see this mirror in another culture. There is a lot I could say about my three month immersion in South Africa, but for now, I will simply highlight a few of the places and spaces spoke to my spirit.
Indulging in these spectacular views while savoring the local wine varieties was definitely a peak experience of my South African tour.
Wine Country
My first stop, where the enchantment of South Africa’s beauty captured my spirit, was the Wine Region. I needed some time to reset after my whirlwind tour of Rwanda, and this was just the spot to unwind and re-calibrate. This area is roughly 45 minutes outside of Cape Town, and has a rich and interesting history.
South Africa's first wine was bottled by Dutch Settler, Jan van Riebeeck, in 1659. He was tasked with planting and managing the vineyards, as it was a way to ward off scurvy amongst the sailors. And yet the activities of the Cape Town wine farms only took off with the arrival of the Huguenots fleeing persecution in France, who were much more proficient in wine production.
The local Khoisan were not accustomed to farming, so in the seventeenth century slaves were brought from the East Indies, Madagascar, and East Africa to work on the wine farms. These are the beginnings of what would come to shape the future title of South Africa as the “Rainbow Nation.” Slavery was abolished in 1834, and yet working conditions remained poor, and wages were low. Workers were afforded wine, food, and housing as part of the payment, which was said to have exacerbated issues related to alcoholism, including widespread social damage among local communities.
As apartheid took a deeper hold in the 1940s, the new regulations stalled the growth of the wine industry as foreign players sanctioned the country in response to the segregation. The end of apartheid led to the rise in popularity of South African Wines in the global market, and also an uptick in international tourism to this area.
The course correction of ethical business practices started to see a shift with the introduction of the Fair-Trade Certification for vineyards in 2003, which called for at least 25 percent ownership of vineyards by farm workers, better wages, capacity building, good housing, and worker involvement in the management of vineyards, has set a new tone for the standards of operation. These changes have dramatically changed the South African wine industry, making it the eighth-largest wine-producing country today.
While I was able to visit a number of different “wine farms” in the area, thanks to the Franschhoek Wine Tram, and a few gracious Uber drivers, there are two I want to highlight for their impact-driven approach.
What felt distinct about South Africa’s wine country compared to other wine regions I have visited is their offerings at their “wine farms” were so expansive, often including lodging, gardens, walking trails, restaurants, and stores featuring a robust spread of local products.
Boschendal: Boschendal was established in 1685 by Jean le Long, one of the French Huguenot who fled religious persecution in France. Le Long planted the first vineyards and orchards, laying the foundation for what would become one of South Africa's most renowned wine estates. Today the estate encompasses approximately 2,200 hectares (5,436 acres) of land. They have developed a mission-oriented approach to running their operations, seeking to be a pioneering and ethical village focused on regenerating nature and actively supporting the local communities to thrive. This is reflected in their efforts to use regenerative farming methods, embrace solar energy, and set recycling/composting targets. In terms of contributing to the well-being of their workforce, they have established a Worker’s Forum to promote fairness, unity, and serve as a voice for their workers on the ground, and as well as created a preschool to provide high quality early-childhood education and full-day childcare for 64 children with the help of 13 staff members. Their estate is a heavenly place to meander around on a Sunday afternoon or to stay for a long-weekend, with options for wine tastings, horseback riding, mountain biking, as well as open-air concerts. Highly recommend this as a stop on your South Africa itinerary!
A first-hand account with the star of the Pigcasso story! Here you can see him relishing in one of his favorite past times, eating, while also showing off some of his famous artistry in the backdrop.
Pigcasso: My other recommendation has a bit more quirk, and soon you will understand why. For you Babe lovers, you are really going to love this one. While the mission is not anything new, to drive awareness about animal agriculture and its negative effects on farmed animals and the environment, their unique approach is what catches your attention. Joanne Lefson, an animal activist from South Africa, rescued a pig before it was being prepared for slaughter in 2016. What she did not realize was that this pig, soon to earn its name of Pigasso, had hidden creative talents. It seemed that this pig ate or destroyed everything in its stall except some old paint brushes, and it was there that a star was born. Joanne decided to let Pigasso explore, and before you know it, the painting process developed into an extraordinary collaboration between a human and a pig. Every original is signed by Pigcasso’s nose-tip, countersigned by Lefson and includes a Certificate of Authenticity. Proceeds from the sale of every artwork benefit the registered nonprofit Farm Sanctuary SA that Lefson established in 2016. So it is at this barn, meets arts studio, meets winery, that you are entertained by meeting the star behind this compelling story (Pigcasso), and learning about the method to his artistic madness. Oh, while also enjoying their signature wines. Animals, art, wine - what’s not to love!?
The drive alone along the Garden Route was well worth it! Meandering through the countryside full of mountains and ocean views was simply spectacular.
Garden Route: The Garden Route is a MUST, for those who love a good road trip and light up at the idea of meandering through charming towns, indigenous forests, and world-class beaches. In terms of transport, I was able to take advantage of the Bazbuz, which has strategic stops built into its service, and the option to hop-on and hop-off for trips lasting 1-2 weeks through the region. It was safe, reasonable, and also a great way to connect with other travelers exploring the area. Here are some of my highlights from that part of my South African tour:
At the Grootbos Foundation, they have a Green Futures Nursery, run as a wholesale commercial enterprise to generate an income for the Green Futures College program while also providing hands-on experience for Green Futures Students. One of many creative funding methods!
Grootbos Foundation: During my visit, a fellow Transformational Travel Council member and South African native, Tom Fels, suggested that I get to know this organization, based upon my interest in conservation as well as human development. So, I made a day trip to their “campus,” which is found at the Grootbos Private Nature Reserve, a luxury eco-lodge and pioneer in the responsible travel movement. Learning about ecotourism projects across Africa and how they interweave their commercial activities with social and environmental impact through a foundation or nonprofit arm was resonant, as I believe greatly that a blended approach is essential to create sustainable solutions. With their guests, they include a “levy” on their stay which funds conservation efforts, and also offer the opportunity to buy carbon credits to offset their carbon emissions associated with air travel. Through their foundation activities, they have a strong emphasis on workforce development through a variety of training programs. These include their Green Futures Indigenous Horticulture and Life Skills College training, focused on serving 12 unemployed young adults annually. The fully accredited course combines essential life skills such as personal finance, business skills, computers, driving and health education with knowledge of environmental and conservation issues, and skills of horticulture and landscaping. Upon completion of the course, participants are assisted with work placement. In addition to this program, they also deliver accredited Lobster Ink hospitality training to 12 carefully recruited, unemployed women from the local community who complete 30 weeks of coursework in conjunction with practical on-site training with assigned mentors in the Grootbos lodges. Computer skills, life skills, business acumen as well as a language component supplement this curriculum, building active citizenship and sustainable livelihoods. To fund their foundation activities, they use a variety of streams of revenue, but one that is very noteworthy is their Grootbos Florilegium, which is a unique collection of botanical illustrations by a collaboration of local and international botanical artists that is featured in a gallery on campus. The collection depicts the rare, endangered and charismatic plants found on the Grootbos Private Nature Reserve and surrounding regions. All profits from the sale of Florilegium prints, books and tours go towards the Grootbos Foundation, split equally between their Conservation and Cultural programmes. So whether you do a day trip to visit this gallery or an extended visit at their gorgeous property, you can feel good knowing that you are supporting the advancement of the region. If you want learn more, you can follow the Grootbos Foundation on Instagram or consider a donation to ensure that these programs are able to make their intended impact.
A sneak peak of the expansive collection of floral depictions hosted at the Florilegium gallery at Grootbos Private Nature Reserve campus. The pieces are contributed by 40 highly acclaimed and celebrated botanical artists, many from South Africa, but also from Reunion, Zimbabwe, Japan, Brazil and the United Kingdom.
Knysna Elephant Park: After visiting a traditional game park in Rwanda, I found myself wondering how I might have a more up close and personal encounter with some of the wildlife of the continent. Additionally, I was also curious to investigate more of the “voluntourism” opportunities that are available for visiting animal lovers. So, I made a stop at Knysna Elephant Park to visit their elephant herd and get to know Christina Tholander, who manages the volunteer program associated with the research being conducted by the African Elephant Research Unit. Through their engaging exhibit hall, I learned that the park has cared for and raised more than forty elephants since it was started in 1994, with the arrival of Harry and Sally (named after a famous movie of the 1990’s). It was the first facility in South Africa to house and care for orphaned African elephants. An overnight stay at this property includes a unique lodging experience, where you are offered the opportunity to “sleepover with the elephants.” Rooms are appropriately named for each of the elephants in the herd, and included in the lodge is a communal lounge, where you can watch the elephants snooze in their “boma.” As part of your stay, you can also participate in their “Meet the Herd” experience where guests have the chance to feed and walk among our free-roaming herd of African Elephants, including getting a few snaps with your newly designated elephant pal. As for the volunteer program, it is very inclusive, and allows anyone to participate, regardless of their background. But a passion and curiosity about elephants certainly helps! To get oriented, you simply do a week of training, and after that, are encouraged to stay at least 3 weeks, but can stay up to 12 weeks. As a volunteer, you will get exposure to research, education, husbandry and conservation. Much of their research has been related to hormone and stress levels of elephants. Their hopes for volunteers is that they walk away with a deeper connection to nature, commitment to protecting the elephants, and passion for conservation. Highly recommend this as a stop on the Garden Route, or a voluntourism assignment for those looking for a more immersive animal experience!
Just hanging with my newest elephant pal, Thandi, as we take in the beauty of the Knysna Forest in the distance together.
Cape Town
Curiocity: When I booked my stay for the Cape Town stint in South Africa, I stumbled upon a spot that spoke to me because of my personal value of “curiosity.” But from there, I found a million reasons why this stay was meant to be, after a series of conversations with the founder Bheki Dube. His vision, as a black South African, is to introduce his guests to a different narrative than the ones they might encounter through their visit with other vendors. I didn’t understand quite what that meant until I took a free walking tour that seemed to think the most interesting stories to share about South Africa was the battle between the two colonizing forces, the Dutch and the British, discounting the significance of the indigenous communities that existed before, during, or after. As of 2022 the population in South Africa was 81.4% Black South African, 7.3% White South African, 8.2% Coloured South African, and 2.7% Indian South African, but as a tourist, it can be easy to cruise through the country without much exposure to the majority population’s story and experience. To play their part, Curiocity offers a Black Route Walking tour as well as tours of the Khayelitsha Township, which was created in the Apartheid era to relocate impoverished black communities into one place, isolating them further from the affluent white minority populations. This place has emerged as a hotbed of culture and entrepreneurship, which we got to see first hand through the tour, but also gives an honest depiction of the cycles of poverty that have been perpetuated by the history of forced segregation. The celebration of Black African culture continued with the monthly Afro Indie Sessions, which are hosted by a local school principal, who is passionate about elevating local artists and their soul-filled musical creations. Featured artists have unique sounds, which are often a modern take on more traditional styles. Entry is free, based upon a “passion for making this art accessible for all, but also making room for the price that patrons put on the art they love - limitless.” Lastly, don’t forget to make time to join for a traditional braai night (South African’s cross-cultural tradition of barbecue), where you will feel the sense of inclusion and community behind the Curiocity concept. Curiocity operates in Cape Town as well as Johannesburg, but has a vision to expand across Africa, with a focus on giving their guests a local’s experience of a destination, by partnering with local businesses, designers and individuals to make every CURIOCITY experience a unique one. Whether you are a backpacker traveler, a solo digital nomad, group travelers, or the c-suite executive wanting to connect to culture, this is a stop you won’t want to miss!
What a delight to share in not one, but TWO evenings of intimate entertainment hosted by the Afro Indie Sessions crew, integrating the celebration of modernity and tradition with regards to Black African artistry.
How am I walking away from my time in South Africa, you might ask? With a greater appreciation for the tenacity of the human spirit. With a question that, in the face of forces you cannot control, how can you still find a way to make your mark? With high hopes for a nation that has so many strengths and challenges, many of which mirrors my own homeland. And a quote from Nelson Mandela that I will carry in my heart, “A winner is a dreamer who never gives up.”
