New Zealand | Making memories in the Kingdom of Kiwis and Kia ora
This was not our first shared Father-Daughter expedition. When I was 8-years old, we began our travelogues on a trip to Disney World, and have successfully survived a road trip across the U.S. and a cruise through South America, since. But 4.5 weeks through Australia & New Zealand was a new test of our travel companionship…
What brought me to New Zealand did not follow the sparks of inspiration that have in the past, led me to other destinations. It was not a curiosity about the country’s commitment to responsible travel. It was not to connect with a culture or community. And it was not to indulge my appetite for natural beauty and outdoor adventures. It was to accompany my Dad on what might be one of his last great escapades, a celebration of his 80th birthday.
One of the ways we kept ourselves entertained on our extended cruise from Australia to New Zealand was to take cooking classes offered on the ship, crafting dishes inspired by the ample seafood (octopus and sea scallops) from Tazmania and Sweet Potato (or kūmara) inspired dishes representing this staple ingredient in Maori cuisine.
Cruise in Australia
Our trip began with a 16-day cruise with Silverseas that started in Sydney, Australia, and gave us glimpses of Australia, Tasmania, as well as the East Coast of both the North and South Island of New Zealand. For the sake of this article, I will not give attention to that portion of the trip because it was slightly predictable…we ate A LOT of food, did quite a few bus tours, enjoyed a nightly ritual of hitting the hot tub with a great read, and discovered our favorite entertainment among a jazz duo tucked away in a cozy restaurant.
Travel Companion Tip: On cruises it can be easy to do your own thing during the day, but having a daily ritual that you share, such as a meet-up at the hot tub, gym, or ping pong table, can provide a good balance of autonomy and connection.
My Dad has always had a great sense of fashion, so we got to spiff ourselves up for some special dinners on the boat, while taking in some spectacular sunsets from the rail.
Road Trip in New Zealand
During our 12-day land tour that followed the cruise, we developed our skills of driving on the “wrong” side of the road and created a game of peeping sheep to keep ourselves entertained, as we cruised the countryside.
New Zealand has become quite the “lore” among travelers…perhaps because it is so far from the rest of the world, or maybe because it has become the backdrop for “other-worldly” film productions such as “The Lord of the Rings” and “Avatar”. Or is it because it offers unlimited fuel for the stories of adrenaline-obsessed travelers?
Whenever something has a lot of “hype” I often approach it with skepticism and predetermined distaste. However my armor was quickly dismantled, as I heard the invitation to guardianship on our flight to Auckland through the Taiki campaign.
It offered an invitation to visitors to: care for land, sea and nature, treading lightly and leaving no trace; travel safely, showing care and consideration for all; and respect culture, travelling with an open heart and mind.
As I watched my own country fall prey to rather dark forces from afar, my spirits were lifted as I got acquainted with the last country in the world to be inhabited by humans. They seemed to recognize the importance of preservation of both nature and culture - a commitment to harmony rather than discord.
Travel Companion Tip: In the midst of trip planning, it can be easy to get caught up in all the details and logistics, but a conversation about what each person expects or is most looking forward to, can help you be a team in ensuring each person gets what they want out of the experience.
As we got our bearings on the beginnings of the road trips we kept asking, where are the humans, animals, and boats? It felt like we were either stepping back in time or had possibly survived the apocalypse.
Here are a few highlights from our road trip …
Lake Tekapo
We started by renting a car in Christchurch, and began the drive towards Mount Cook. Cruising through what is called the Mackenzie Region, we stumbled upon Lake Tekapo. Here you are struck by the contrast between the Turquoise water accented by the seasonal display of wildflowers. What we did not realize, was this was only the beginning of the cascade of glacier-fed lakes that are sprinkled throughout the Southern island.
But what makes this one special is that it was designated in 2012 as the Aoraki Mackenzie International Dark Sky Reserve, the largest dark-sky reserve in the southern hemisphere. While we did not get to enjoy this, I think the ultimate way to maximize the features of this region is to enjoy a soak blended with stargazing at Tekapo Springs.
Lake Tekapo was the beginning of the breathtaking scenery that we discovered around ever curve for the duration of our trip.
Travel Companion Tip: Having dinner nightly on a trip can sometimes lead to redundant conversations. Early on, I suggested that we each share our favorite photo from the day, as a way of understanding what each other appreciated, and encouraging each of us to be present. It usually sparked some kind of conversation and expanded our view of what we were seeing.
Mount Cook
Upon arriving at our lodging, The Hermitage Hotel, we were awe-struck with the expansive view from our room of the largest mountain on the Island of New Zealand: Mount Cook. This place was reminiscent of the feelings I had when I first visited Jackson Lake Lodge in the Grand Tetons. With hiking trails in all directions, scenic flights to capture 360 views of the “Southern Alps,” as well as a Planetarium - there is plenty to keep mind, body, and spirit engaged.
One of my favorite parts of staying at the Lodge was visiting the Sir Edmond Hillary Museum, to grow my appreciation for one of the greatest mountaineers of all time. Mount Cook was a training ground for his future expeditions at Everest as well as Antarctica, so it is fitting that his memory is honored in this spot. On this visit I only had time for a quick hike on the Kea Point Track, but if I were to return I would relish a longer trek on the Mueller Hut Track.
The Hermitage Hotel proved to be the perfect basecamp for enjoying and exploring Mount Cook and the environs. Built in 1885 to cater for affluent climbers and tourists, it has survived fires and floods throughout the years. It brings both nostalgic and modern charm together to entertain it’s guests, who come from all corners of the world.
Travel Companion Tip: When my Dad and I have traveled together, he has suggested that we alternate selecting restaurants each day, so that both people share this responsibility, but also get to have our food preferences equally considered.
Wanaka
Wanaka proved to be my favorite town of any of our stops along the way. While still a hub for adventure-focused travelers, its lakefront views, mix of local shops and restaurants, and limited tourist traffic make it feel like a calm and serene place to lay your head. We let this be our home-base to explore Mount Aspiring National Park, which proved to be the untouched wilderness that struck a chord for my Dad and I both.
While my dad was besotted by the crystal clear mountain streams and the ample fishing opportunities that it presented, I longed to meander through the native forests with the periodic opportunity to feast your eyes on a cascading waterfall. Both of us walked away unsatisfied for these deeper dives into the park’s towering mountains, but the pristine beauty still touched parts of our souls.
To satisfy our palates, we were foiled when we attempted to go to the regions most famous winery, Rippon, but we did manage to enjoy a unique lunch at Hook Wanaka, where you are offered the opportunity to catch a chinook salmon from their spring-fed fishing lakes, to actively participate in their “lake-to-plate” concept.
One of our stops on our tour of Mount Aspiring National Park. Rest assured there is no lack of water in New Zealand, due to temperate climate and maritime weather patterns.
Travel Companion Tip: Over the course of the trip, our strengths revealed themselves, and we got into our groove of how we could each contribute. My youthful strength helped us haul our luggage around, since we were relocating about every other day. My Dad’s passion and joy of driving helped us navigate the narrow and winding roads. Play to your strengths to feel like a team navigating new lands.
Fjordlands
We ventured more off-the-beaten-path during our visit to Fiordland National Park, where we stayed at our favorite lodging on the trip, Fiordland Lodge. The feeling of luxury was amplified with elevated menus, fur throws, nightly canapes, and hot tubs overlooking the lake and fjords. Here I was taken back to my guest ranch days in Colorado, where rustic, intimate quarters are complemented by excellent service and splendid amenities.
The only thing better than a hot tub is a hot tub with a spectacular view of sunlit fjords welcoming you at the end of a full day of touring.
Staying here, we had an access point to the wonders of Milford Sound, through a two-hour drive traversing winding mountain roads, dripping rainforests, and rolling meadows. Some consider this New Zealand’s most stunning natural attraction, which you can take in by boat, kayak, or helicopter.
We took a boat cruise, where our eyes feasted upon the gushing waterfalls, craggy cliffs, as well as dolphins navigating the ink-blue waters. Over 600 million years ago this area was once part of a huge mountain range on the megacontinent of Gondwanaland, which included Australia, Antarctica, and New Zealand.
Our cruise through Milford Sound took place on a misty day, only adding to the mystical magic of this scenic stop on our road trip.
Travel Companion Tip: While I was surprised at how much my Dad and I shared in terms of what we enjoyed as we traveled, we also found ways to honor our separate interests. Once we got to Taupo, my Dad finally got to enjoy a half-day of fishing while I took a long hike to catch Huka Falls and a dam release. Extended time apart at least once a week helped alleviate tensions and sustain our extended travels.
Taupo
Our last stop was on the North Island, which is less well-known for the access to nature, but more well-known for its geo-thermal activity and celebration of Maori culture. We enjoyed a base in Taupo, where you get to enjoy views of the largest lake in New Zealand, formed as a volcanic caldera after an eruption about 27,000 years ago.
Our lodging here, Lake Taupo Lodge, had a different flavor than anywhere else we stayed, due to the interest-story of the owner, Gary. He had become a successful businessman in the fashion industry, running “Formula Fashions” for 30 years in New Zealand and Australia. After entertaining illustrious professional colleagues from around the world, they decided to remodel their house into an official lodge. This allowed them to open their home to a broader array of guests, who might enjoy their Frank Lloyd Wright-inspired style and exquisite approach to gardening.
The landscaped gardens at this luxury bed & breakfast lodge overlooking Lake Taupo were only made more wonderful by the chirps, whistle, and trills of the birds attracted to the immaculate grounds.
The highlight of our trip to this region was a visit to Wairakei Terraces & Thermal Health Spa. My trip-long quest for a hot spring was finally satisfied, and I was delighted to discover upon arrival that there was a celebration of not only health and wellness, but also recognition of the Maori culture’s original relationship with the mud and silica waters found in these geothermal areas. Through the Terrace Walk on property, you can enjoy intricate carvings posted to connect you to te ao Māori (the Māori world) and local iwi (tribe) Ngāti Tūwharetoa.
While you are in the region, I recommend a stop at The Bistro for a clean but comforting dish, Plateau Bar + Eatery for kiwi and asian fusion, and Two Mile Bay Sailing Club for a Peroni and pizza on the water.
Soaking in the mineral waters of the Taupo region was a great finale to our New Zealand adventures.
In truth I have really only scratched the surface of what there is to see and do in New Zealand…we made stops in Queenstown (adventure capital), Dunedin (hip college town), and Wellington (capital city) that I don’t have time to dive into for the sake of this post…
We did not make it to Marlborough, which is the heart of the winemaking industry, nor did we make it to Rotorua, which is the cultural hub for learning about the Maori people and traditions. I detect there will be a return for an extended period in the future, where I can more fully immerse myself in the natural wonders that we tasted on this preliminary visit. In short, New Zealand, I will be back.
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